![]() Yes each step of the way is super conservative just the way GM is, even GM does not offer 100,000 mile warranty. I'd go with the Borla 3" system touring with their 2 and 3/4 60608 tiwn resonators, Kooks 2" and green cats. $3000 for 30 HP with LOTs of compromises. NA stage 4: 2" headers and cats, be warned with large cam and / or aftermarket exhaust this can be LOUD and lots of vibration for dunno up to 30 HP or front cat deletes. NA stage 3: CA off-road pipes, move O2 behind rear cat Borla 60608 twin resonator (if you want it to sound stock), Rotorfab. NA stage 2: Pray ported IM and TB or MSD and 103 ![]() Probably a good idea to change con-rod bolts if you going over 6800 rpm. NA stage 1: Cam GM Hot or similar, Heads, E85, tune, cut stock box with green filter, valvetrain johnson lifters. 600 lift), Ligenfenter pump and injectors, ZL1 in-tank, DSX second pump, heads with Manley extreme pro flow valves, complete valve train to the best, CA off-road pipes, move 02 behind cats, Borla 60608 twin resonators, forged drop in piston and rods. Up to 800 engine HP build: D1x, E85, cam (mainly for fuel lobe sub. ![]() That said I'm very comfortable with gearing now NA (cams and heads).īase Blower, tune, E85, LT4 pump and Injectors, ZL1 in-tank Now with FI, I wish I had the V6 3.5:1 diff and / or the Zl1 M6's first gear. For the first year or so I thought 4.10 would be the best mod possible.
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